Driving School Diaries, Part I

In which a change of New Zealand Government policy forces me to get a car license in Taiwan…

Taiwan Driver’s License Textbook and some Chinese-language paperwork.
Taiwan Driver’s License Textbook. Photo: Zhen-Kang.

When I came to Taiwan last year, I knew my New Zealand driver’s license would expire in January 2025. But I was unconcerned, because I also knew overseas New Zealanders could extend the expiration date by up to a year.

So, with January 2025 just around the corner, this week I visited the New Zealand Transport Agency website to apply for that extension—only to learn the the option was quietly removed a couple of months ago.

I emailed the NZTA. They said it’s now impossible to extend or renew a driver’s license while overseas. (Thanks, NZ Government!)

Here in Taiwan, I have no reason to drive a car. My scooter-and-public-transport lifestyle is far more convenient. And I don’t want to risk hitting grandpa.

But I want to retain a car license for trips to New Zealand and elsewhere.

This means I have two options:

  1. A license dash to New Zealand (best case scenario: 3–4 days, costing around NT$60,000 / NZ$3,000)
  2. Get my Taiwan car driver’s license (45 hours of compulsory training plus one theory and two practical exams, for around NT$20,000 / NZ$1,000)

I chose option 2.

How to enroll at a Taiwanese driving school

The first step was finding a school in Kaohsiung with English-speaking instructors. Luckily, my nearest school claimed to offer English tuition.

However, when I got there, I discovered this was only half true…

To get a Taiwanese car driver’s license, you must complete 45 hours of compulsory education: 20 hours of theory, and 25 hours of driving practice. The receptionist said I could have an English-speaking instructor for the driving part. But my 20 hours of theory class could only be taught in Chinese.

After explaining I wouldn’t understand 20 hours of theory class in Chinese, the receptionist suggested a highly questionable, highly convenient solution:

I pay for class, but don’t attend.

Because, she surmised, if I don’t understand Chinese, the compulsory theory class would be “a waste of time”.

Happy to accept dubious logic in my favor, I enrolled on the spot.

A book titled Driver’s License Textbook Chinese/English, resting on a pile of Chinese-language paperwork.
I was given this Driver’s License Textbook to study in my own time. I don’t know why the cover features an 80-year-old car driving on the River Thames.

No insurance on the inside, third-party on the outside

I was told the driver training vehicles have no insurance cover on the driving school grounds (where I’d spend most of my 25 hours of driving practice), and only third-party cover in the real world. So I should be careful.

Maybe that explains the one-star reviews:

⭐️
I have never seen such an irresponsible business owner, let alone such a shameless person.
⭐️
With this kind of service quality and teaching quality, people would be suspicious.
⭐️
Super do not recommend! I really want to return it! Very!!

Beautification for $2.50 extra

In addition to the 45 25 hours of compulsory education, to get my license I will need to:

On this last point, there was a photo booth immediately outside the driving school office. It offered nine passport photos for NT$150 (NZ$7.50), or nine beautified passport photos for an extra NT$50 (NZ$2.50).

After confirming it was acceptable to use artifically-beautified photos on official government documents (“of course!”), per instructions I gave the camera a toothless smile, then one minute later, I held in my hand nine beautiful copies of my idealized self:

A contact sheet from a photo booth, comprising nine headshots that have been artificially beautified.
So far as I can tell, the AI applied heavy-handed skin smoothing and, uncomfortably, a touch of skin whitening too.

Roof-rack sunshades and very narrow type

I was given the chance to look around the training facility. The practice track includes S-bends (which you need to navigate both forwards and in reverse), parallel and reverse parking spots, and a ramp for uphill starts.

Here’s a satellite view from Google Maps:

Google Maps’ satellite view of the driving school test track.

Back at ground level, the first thing I noticed was the festoon lights hanging above the entrance.

In defiance of the one-star reviews, this looks like a happy place:

Festoon lights hanging across the entrance to a driving school in Kaohsiung, Taiwan.

In fairness, the school actually has an average rating of 4.9 stars—just about the highest rating in Kaohsiung.

I didn’t bother translating the five-star reviews, but perhaps in summer, students appreciate these sunshades affixed to the roof-racks of practice cars:

A rough-looking car, perhaps 25 or 30 years old, with a canvas sunshade stretched across the roof-rack.

Meanwhile, the newer cars, that students drive on actual roads, thankfully have air conditioning:

A fleet of modern Toyota sedans, in excellent condition.

At various points on the test track, bilingual signage lists penalties for non-compliance. Some of the English text is wildly compressed—especially in the bottom three lines of this sign:

A bilingual sign next to a driving school test track in Kaohsiung, Taiwan. The Chinese characters are in a normal type, but the English characters are compressed horizontally to a ridiculous extent, making them almost unreadable.

Driving practice starts in two weeks. I’ll attend on Mondays, Wednesdays, and every second Friday, for 100 minutes each time.

Given I already know how to drive, it’ll be a long six weeks.

Before then, I have to read 190 pages of the textbook, and go to hospital to complete my health check.

And pay another NT$15,000 (NZ$750) in course fees, in addition to my deposit.

Thanks again, NZ Government! 🇳🇿